Beads of Change: Investigating the Shift in Mangyan Jewelry-Making Practices in the Age of Commercialization

Abstract

Mangyan culture is deeply grounded in artistic traditions such as weaving, pottery, and jewelry-making that carry symbolic meaning tied to their identity and spiritual beliefs. Among the Hanunuo Mangyan of Oriental Mindoro, jewelry-making has long involved the use of natural materials such as plant seeds. However, in the 21st century, contemporary Mangyan jewelry has shifted toward commercial materials. This study investigates how this transition has influenced their craft, focusing on changes in (a) materials, (b) design patterns and symbols, (c) construction methods, (d) production processes and the factors contributing to this transition, as well as the perceptions of Mangyan artisans regarding its impact on their cultural identity and heritage. Adopting a qualitative and descriptive approach, the study draws on interviews with four Hanunuo Mangyan artisans and two non-profit organizations, the Mangyan Heritage Center and Christian Help Center Philippines. The analysis is grounded in Adorno’s theory of the Culture Industry, supported by Formalistic Aesthetics Analysis and Social Aesthetics to examine both aesthetic evolution and socio-cultural dimensions of Mangyan jewelry-making. Findings reveal that while the shift has introduced new design possibilities and expanded market opportunities, core cultural values remain embedded in their craft. Artisans actively negotiate between tradition and innovation, allowing their craft to evolve while remaining rooted in cultural meaning.